Care to share that schematic?
No problem, this is the one out of my book (I think it's readable):
Like I said, there are at least a dozen variations of this on the net. google link: here
. Mostly the differences have to do with the final coil and cap(s) and/or the pilot light (some don't use it at all, some replace it with a 150 ma. meter. My book says use the light OR a meter).
Curt Reed wrote:
Rereading your post says you plan to use a 6L6 in the final.
Well.... I DO have plans for a single tube unit using the 6AG7, but they say it only puts out ~ 7 watts, and this is suppose to put out 35 watts. It doesn't look like it's much harder to build, and I thought it would get me more distance than 7 watts would. Is this a mistake?
Use a metal 6L6 and make sure pin 1 of it is grounded to the chassis with the shortest possible leads.
The plans say to ground pin one with a short lead. Why a metal tube instead of a glass one? (the pictures in my book do show a metal tube, but many of the ones on the net do not). I will have to look thru all my metal tubes, I know I have some glass 6L6 tubes but I'm sure about metal ones.
You could probably expect up to 100 volts across the key in a cathode keyed circuit like that. Nothing too dangerous, but it is noticable if you get across the key contacts when the key is open.
Is there a reason that a relay couldn't be used between the key and the 100 volts?